Yovos on Parade

I guess I should start by explaining the title of this post. A “yovo” is a white person/foreigner in one of the Beninese local languages. We get called it all the time, but mainly by little kids. It’s pretty funny now, but I’ve heard it will start getting really annoying. Anyway, our group feels like “Yovos on Parade” because we’ve all been walking around and doing stuff together and it’s kind of hard to miss a giant group of white people in Benin.

Anyhoo, so much has happened these past few days that I don’t even know where to begin. I can’t believe it’s only been a week since I left home. The long plane rides were great because I slept the whole time. We ended up traveling for about 24 hours and it was pretty jarring to be thrown into the craziness that is Cotonou.

Seeing the city for the first time at night was pretty interesting because the streets were lined with vendors who lit oil lamps to show their goods. We drove down that same road the next day and while the vendors were still there, the poverty that runs rampant in city immediately became more visible.

Our PC group is staying in an old monastery called Saint Jean Eude. I was pretty happy when I found out that this place had electricity and running water, but what I should really say is that this place has “electricity” and “running water.” The electricity seems to be fine, but the water often stops working…mainly at inopportune times…like in the middle of a shower. Yep. It wasn’t too bad though…probably because I stopped really caring about personal hygiene. It only took 3 days in Africa. For most of you, that shouldn’t be a surprise since I often state that showers are overrated. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not a completely filthy human being now, but when you’re constantly a sweaty mess and surrounded by other sweaty people, you just stop caring.

Speaking of my new sweaty friends…we seem to be getting along just fine. We aren’t allowed to leave the monastery after 8pm, so we have just been hanging out, playing cards, drinking a bit of La Beninoise (local brewsky), and listening to some of the guys play guitar. Last night was particularly amazing because I decided to go to bed a little early and then ran into some of the PC guys who were singing and playing guitar with some of the Beninese workers. It was the making of a cross-cultural dance party. One Beninese man was a wicked dancer. I mean, he had some absolutely hilarious moves. I, being one to never turn down a good dance party, jumped on in. I was bobbing around to whatever the guys were playing and then showed my new dance partner the “fishing line” dance. Leave it to me to be the dancing fool who breaks out the fish dance in front of a group of strangers. Oh well, I’ve realized that laughter instantly brings people together, so why not make a fool out of myself?

I also went on my first run in Africa. I woke up early with some of the current Volunteers (they have been here a year or so and are helping out with training) and ran on some of the “roads” off the main street. I say “roads” because it was basically a sand/dirt path. It was definitely the most eye opening run I’ve ever been on. We ran past a bunch of houses (shacks) and there were goats, pigs, and roosters walking around picking at the piles of garbage on the street or drinking from dirty puddles that are definitely breeding grounds for malaria. The sight of this poor neighborhood (though I’m pretty sure it’s one of the better-off ones in Benin) was definitely unsettling, but it was even worse when I saw a little girl sitting in one of the garbage piles. I’m going to have to get used to seeing these sorts of things or else I won’t make it through two years here.

On to more upbeat things… I rode my first zemidjan (motorcycle taxi) today! They are the main modes of transportation in Cotonou and other cities in Benin. Our PC group had a little orientation and then we went out onto the street and had to hail a zemi (though the drivers that took us on our first ride knew what was going on and were waiting to take us out around the block). I was pretty terrified because I had seen how crazy people drive and how bad the traffic is, but it was actually fun! PC Volunteers are required to wear helmets (no one else does) and that definitely helps a lot. The only bad thing about the zemi ride was that I think I was a little enthusiastic in throwing my leg over the bike that I ripped a giant hole in my pants. Luckily, one of the volunteers had some fabric that I made into a makeshift skirt that I walked around in all day.

We took a walking tour around Cotonou and got to see more of the downtown area. We also saw the beach which leaves little to be desired. If you come visit me, we are not going to the Cotonou beach. It’s pretty dirty, plus the tides are really strong and it’s dangerous to swim there. The rest of the walk was cool. We stopped and got a drink (I had a delicious beverage called a Fizzi Pampelmousse which is a fizzy grapefruit type soda) and chatted with the older volunteers about different diseases some of the other volunteers had gotten. Awesome. I won’t say anything too gross, but I’ll just say that PC people become very open about what’s going on inside their bodies.

Other things I’ve done this week is get 2 more shots (typhoid and meningitis) and had my language interview. I’m pretty sure I’m placed in either Novice-High or Intermediate-Low, so despite all my nervous laughter during the interview, I must have said some things correctly in French. I had my first language lesson the other day. There are only 2 other people with me (guys from my business sector). My teacher is this really cool Beninese woman. We learned about different African French slang phrases and just practiced speaking a bit. I’m excited to learn French, but I know that I’ll have to study and practice a lot and be prepared to make many mistakes.

I’m not sure I’ll be able to write anything for a while because I’m start the intense 9 week training tomorrow and also move in with my host family. I’m sooo excited to meet them! It’ll probably be pretty awkward, but I’m sure it will only lead to some hilarious stories and me gaining a better insight into the French language and Beninese culture.